Mokokchung & Mon

Amongst the headhunters

The Nagas have come to exemplify an exotic society - renowned for their fierce resistance to intruders and their practice of headhunting. Even though times have changed and Nagaland is fast modernizing, the people have retained many of their old customs.

On this pioneering journey, you visit the remote northern part of Nagaland where life in villages has little changed. The scenery is stunning with green valleys, meandering streams, high mountains with deep gorges and a rich variety of flora and fauna.

"In the age of globalisation, it is so interesting to visit a place which is so different from the rest of the world."

Mokokchung & Mon

Day 1, DRIVE TO MOKOKCHUNG

The drive from Jorhat to Mokokchung follows a beautiful road that winds itself from the plains of Assam up the lush mountains of Nagaland. There are fantastic vistas at every turn and you are bound to stop many times for taking pictures.

Mokokchung is the cultural center of the Ao people and is considered to be one of the most beautiful, culturally vibrant and friendly cities of North East India, and of Nagaland in particular.

Historically, Mokokchung was one of the initial locations in the Naga Hills, where the Assam Rifles, led by Britishers, first established their outposts (then called stockades) in the later part of 19th century. Much of the town initially grew around this post located in the DC Hill. The British administration was then gradually extended eastwards towards the remoter parts of the Naga Hills.

Stay at the Tourist Lodge for three nights.

Day 2, VISIT LONGKHUM

Longkhum village is located on the highest hill top in Mokokchung district, 17 km from Mokokchung. It used to be famous for head hunting in the past and the Nagas believe that it is the resting placed for spirits of the dead en route to paradise. You are expected to come again to Longkhum to collect your spirit which is likely to stay behind. Longkhum, commands lovely views and locals make ethnic handicrafts and handloom products.

Day 3, VISIT CHUCHUYIMLAMG

This mouthful of a name is a pretty village just 20 km from Mokokchung, located on a ridge with sweeping views of the hills and valleys around. The houses are built in traditional Ao Naga style - elevated a little above ground and the back verandahs open out on to the vast panoramic views of the mountain ranges.

Chuchuyimlang has won an award for being one of the cleanest villages in India. Streets are indeed amazingly clean with wonderful displays of flowers in the front of the houses. Every house opens onto a well tended garden, and the people are accustomed to visitors and welcome a chat.

There is a small cross junction which can be called as the town centre. Here is a Morung (dormitory for young men) and the log-drum which announces any major happening in the village and was also used to call villagers to arms in case of invasions. A small museum here shows the typical dress and lifestyle of the Ao Nagas and is worth a visit.

Day 4, DRIVE TO MON

The last part of the drive from Mokokchung to Mon, from Wakching onwards, affords again beautiful views over the Naga hills. Mon district is the land of the Konyak tribes. You may still be able to admired the former head hunters with their tattooed faces and big horns pierced in their ears. Konyaks are still ruled by heredetary chiefs known as Angh.

Mon is a fairly un-remarkable town without a true centre. The one large open space here is the stadium which is also the venue for the annual festivals. Roads in dire need of repair wind around seemingly aimlessly. There are no buildings of particular interest apart from the few churches which stand out, taller than the rest.

There is hardly any decent accommodation in Mon but you have to remember that Mon is the base to see some of the most interesting tribes in Nagaland.

You stay at Mon View Resort for two nights.

Day 5, VISIT LONGWA AND CHEANGHAH CHINGYU

Two hours drive from Mon is the village of Lungwa, situated right on the Myanmar border. In fact, the chief's house is bisected longitudinally by the border. When you visit the chief's house you will therefore have the strange experience of sitting near the hearth with half your body in Myanmar and the other half still in India. It's not the only unusual thing -- the chief also has dozens of wives! The chief's house, filled with dubious trophies of various animal skulls, is also quite a sight.

Unfortunately, Longwa has been affected by the visit of travellers in recent years. Local headhunters have turned into sellers of tacky souvenirs in order to earn some extra money. The village of Cheanghah Chingyu is more off the beaten track and not visited as yet by many outsiders so the atmosphere is more relaxed. The Angh is young and modern and lives with his family in an impressive large house on top of the hill. Outside is a board which mentions that his father, who died in 2001, was married to 18 wives and had hunted 130 heads in his lifetime. Some of the skulls are still lying in a pit in the garden and will be proudly shown to you.

Day 6, DRIVE TO DIBRUGARH

The drive from Mon to Dibrugarh is not for the faint-hearted. The road up to the border with Assam is a tier-breaking trail. From the border onwards the road slowly improves till you reach the highway to Dibrugarh.

Totally rebuilt after a devastating earthquake in 1950, the new town of Dibrugarh lies on the banks of the Brahmaputra in Upper Assam. It is the perfect place to experience and enjoy the richness of tea gardens.

Stay at Mancotta Chang Bungalow for two nights.

Day 7, VISIT NAM PHAKE VILLAGE

A living heritage, Nam Phake village is home of the last 2,000 Nam Phake people. Originally from China, they migrated a few centuries ago to Thailand and Burma but finally settled down in Dibrugarh district.

Situated on the banks of Dihing river, the village is clean and picturesque enough to look like a resort. The Nam Phake people have tried to keep their cultural identity distinct even though being welcoming of outsiders. The quaint bamboo houses, raised on stilts are clean and still use many age old traditions. The main income is from agriculture; betel nut, took palms and paddy.

The pride of the Nam Phake village is the Buddhist temple and monastery here which regularly sees overseas visitors. The Thai Princess had come on a visit as have diplomats and politicians from Thailand. The monastery has an incredible number of old manuscripts, some dating back a few centuries.

Day 8, ONWARDS FROM DIBRUGARH

Your tour ends in Dibrugarh after breakfast. Dibrugarh is connected by air and rail to the rest of India.

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Tailor-made Suggestions

Ideas to personalize this sample itinerary:

There are plenty of ways to change this sample itinerary, either to extend your stay or experience different areas in more detail.

A heritage hotel in Jorhat

The best place to stay in Jorhat is the five bedroom Thengal Manor, the 75-year-old family home of one of the leading planters families in Assam.

A chang bungalow in Dibrugarh town

Stay at Chowkidinghee Chang Bungalow, an intimate bungalow set within a tea garden in the centre of Dibrugarh.

A homestay in Digboi

The best way to learn about the tea processing is by staying in the home of Ranjit & Indira Baruah, the Hollonghabi Tea Bungalow.

Fact Finder for this Tour

Highlights
  • Visit Mokokchung, the cultural center of the Ao people
  • Explore villages around Mon where time has stood still
  • Stay in a wonderful tea bungalow in Dibrugarh
Duration

Departure

Daily from Jorhat
Not advisable from April to October (due to the monsoon)

Price

From 1399 USD per person - based on 2 people sharing

Inclusions
  • Accommodation on twin share basis at selected hotels
  • Stay on bed & breakfast basis
  • Fully escorted by English-speaking local guide
  • Transport by air-conditioned vehicle with private chauffeur
  • All transfers and excursions as per the itinerary
Tour price excludes
  • International flights